A fence is one of those purchases where the visible part gets all the attention and the part that determines how long it lasts is buried in the ground. Here's how we'd think about it.
Cedar: the Texas default
Western red cedar is what most quality privacy fences around Austin are built from, and it earns the position. It's naturally rot- and insect-resistant without chemical treatment, it's dimensionally stable in our heat, and left untreated it weathers to a silver-grey that a lot of people prefer to the original color.
Expect fifteen to twenty years from a well-built cedar fence, longer if it's sealed every few years. It costs more up front than pine and it's worth it in most situations.
Treated pine: the budget option that can work
Pressure-treated pine costs meaningfully less and, if it's properly treated and properly installed, will give you a decade or more. The catch is that pine moves more than cedar as it dries — warping, cupping and twisting pickets are common in our climate, particularly on boards that weren't dried before installation.
It's a reasonable choice for a long back run where appearance matters less, or when budget is genuinely the deciding factor. We'll build it well; just know what you're getting.
Composite and vinyl: pay now, forget about it
Composite and vinyl fencing costs substantially more up front and essentially nothing thereafter — no staining, no sealing, no rot, no warping. In full Texas sun, quality matters a lot: cheap vinyl gets brittle and chalky after years of UV exposure, while good product holds up well.
It makes the most sense if you plan to stay in the house long-term and genuinely don't want to think about maintenance again.
Ranch rail and pipe: acreage answers
For property lines on acreage, privacy usually isn't the point — marking a boundary and containing animals is. Three-rail cedar or pine looks right on Texas land and costs far less per foot than privacy fencing. Welded pipe costs more but lasts essentially forever and stands up to livestock in a way wood doesn't.
Where the money actually goes
Here's the part that matters more than material choice: posts. A fence fails at its posts, essentially always. Posts set too shallow, set in dirt rather than concrete, or set without letting the concrete cure before the rails go on will lean within a few years no matter what the pickets cost.
We set posts in concrete at proper depth for local soil conditions and let them cure before framing. It's slower. It's also the reason our fences are still plumb when the neighbor's isn't.
The second thing worth spending on is hardware. Galvanized or coated fasteners and proper gate hardware cost a little more and prevent the rust streaks and sagging gates that make a three-year-old fence look ten.
A note on slope
Most Central Texas lots aren't flat. A fence run across sloping ground either steps down in even increments or racks to follow the grade continuously. Stepping suits privacy fences and formal looks; racking suits ranch rail and rolling land. Getting this decision wrong is the most common reason a new fence looks subtly off — and it can't be fixed afterward without rebuilding.
Repair before replace
If you already have a fence that's leaning or sagging, get it inspected before you price a replacement. It's frequently three or four failed posts rather than a failed fence, and targeted repair costs a fraction of a rebuild. We'll give you both numbers and let you decide.
Free estimates on new installs, repairs and tear-outs — call (512) 679-3463.